From Queen Victoria to the Crown Princess
Osborne, January 20, 1874
Pray be photographed by Bergamasco who has done all those
lovely photos of Marie. Pray ask Alix to
be done too. I think Alix does not dress her hair to advantage just now. Too high and pointed and close at the sides
for her small head. The present fashion
with a frizzle and fringe in front is frightful.
***********
Today’s letter was written to Vicky shortly after this one, while the Crown Princely couple were
still preparing to head to St. Petersburg for Affie’s and Marie’s wedding. It is the first real mention of the
distinctive look of 1870s fashion, a look that which Alexandra was probably
best known. Following the full-skirts
and the severe hairstyles of the 1840s-1860s, the look of the 1870s emphasized
a tall, narrow look. Tall, slim
Alexandra was probably the best person to lead this look, and with her
prominence in London society, it is no wonder that she became a style icon of
the time.
Alexandra quickly adapted her center-part hairstyle to the
manner that Victoria mentions – her “poodle” look, as some call it – to create
even more height and narrowness. Women’s
hair was typically pulled back into a high, tight knot or chignon, sometimes
with large or small curls cascading down the back. The top of the hair was often a carpet of
small curls. False hair was often used
to create bulk, or to create the effect of curled bangs in the front. Alexandra’s sister-in-law Beatrice eventually
became so dependent on her false fringe (bangs) that when a fire destroyed much
of her clothing in the 1880s (including the fringe), Beatrice insisted on
wearing a hat during a meeting with the insurance company.
While dresses certainly had their embellishments, flounce
and width were held to a minimum – except in the back of course, where bustles
started to become more prominent.
Corsets had been used as a part of women’s costume for ages, but in the
1870s the emphasis incredibly small waist begins to be seen, giving corsets a
more expanded role in a woman’s look. Unfortunately for Alexandra, a lower-cut neck
also came into vogue. Alexandra had long
gone to great lengths to conceal a large scar on her neck, but now she began to
do this with large chokers of diamonds and pearls. Wealthy women went wild to try to emulate the
“dripping with diamonds” look.
Charles Bergamasco, the photographer whom Victoria speaks of
in the letter, was an Italian man who moved to St. Petersburg in the
1840s. Originally an actor, he became
fascinated by the daguerrotypes of the 1850s and began studying the
process. He photographed several members
of the Russian Imperial family during his time in St. Petersburg.
Bergamasco did indeed photograph Alexandra in this exact
style (however, it is unclear whether or not Bergamasco photographed Alexandra
on her trip to Russia, or at another time).
In the picture below, Alexandra wears a choker, a high up-do, and a
jacket with very narrow sleeves nicely showcasing the look of the time:
(Alexandra, as photographed by Bergamasco sometime in the 1870s. Photo credit: National Portrait Gallery)
Bergamasco also photographed Maria several times, just as
Victoria claims. The photographs of
Maria are indeed quite lovely, portraying Maria as young and innocent in an
almost romantic way. However, these were
done before Maria began to embrace the style her sister in law was starting to
make famous:
(Young and innocent Maria in court dress. Photo credit: gogmsite.net)
The dress and hairstyle that accentuated Alexandra’s willowy
looks did nothing for Maria, with her rounder face and curvier features (not a
Bergamasco photograph):
(Maria, who should have probably forgone the false fringe. Photo credit: jcosmas.com)
Victoria was evidently charmed all the more charmed by
Bergamasco’s pictures of Alexandra, and she invited the photographer to Britain
in 1877 to photograph several members of the royal family, including herself. Victoria clearly did not approve of the 1870s
dress and hairstyles, wearing her standard utilitarian widow’s digs. It seems as though Bergamasco wasn’t inclined
to add any life to the photograph either if Victoria wasn’t even going to try:
(Victoria probably paid Bergamasco some serious cash for this photograph. Yeah, I know. Photo credit: National Portrait Gallery)
Alexandra kept up the high and tight look for most of the
rest of her life, pausing only to add more height, curl, and jewels to her
look. In fact, by the time she became
queen in 1901, one wonders if she could have crawled out the back of some of
her fanciest get-ups without anyone noticing?
(The coronation outfit, wearing Alexandra. Photo credit: Royal Order of Sartorial Splendor)
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